More and more people in their twenties and early thirties are asking me about anti-wrinkle treatment before they have any real lines at all. The idea is often called "preventative" treatment: soften the movement that causes creases early, so they never get the chance to set in. It's a reasonable question, and it deserves an honest answer rather than a sales pitch.
What "preventative" actually means
Every time we frown, raise our eyebrows or smile, the muscles underneath fold the skin. When we're young, the skin springs straight back. Over the years, as collagen and elasticity naturally reduce, those folds start to stay put. The temporary creases you only see when you move (dynamic lines) gradually become lines you can see at rest (static lines).
Anti-wrinkle treatment relaxes specific muscles so they fold the skin less. The thinking behind preventative treatment is that if a line is creased less often, it's slower to become a permanent one. That's why people usually ask about it for the frown lines between the eyebrows, the forehead and around the eyes, the areas we use most.
Does it work?
The honest answer is that the reasoning makes sense and many practitioners see the benefit, but there isn't long-term research following people who started treatment in their twenties over several decades. What we do know is that results from each treatment wear off after a few months, so any preventative approach means ongoing appointments, not a one-off.
Some experts feel there's little point treating a face that has almost nothing to treat yet, and that it's better to wait until faint lines begin to appear at rest. I think that's a fair view. In my experience, the right time is different for everyone. It depends on your skin, how expressive your face is, your lifestyle and, most of all, why you want it.
The things that matter more than any injection
Before anyone considers treatment, these make the biggest difference to how skin ages, and they cost far less:
- Daily sunscreen. UV exposure is one of the biggest causes of early lines and uneven skin. A broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, every day, all year round, really is the single best habit.
- Not smoking. Smoking speeds up the breakdown of collagen and causes fine lines around the mouth.
- A simple, consistent routine. Gentle cleansing, a good moisturiser and, if your skin tolerates it, a retinoid at night.
- Sleep, hydration and a balanced diet. Not glamorous, but your skin shows it.
If you're in your early twenties with no lines at rest, these steps are where I'd always suggest starting.
When treatment might be worth considering
Treatment may be worth talking about if you're starting to notice lines that stay when your face is relaxed, particularly between the brows, or if a strong frown habit makes you look cross or tired when you're not. In that case, a small, carefully placed amount can soften things without changing how you look. The aim is always that people notice you look well rested, not that you've had something done.
Doing it for the right reasons
Anti-wrinkle treatment is a personal choice and it should always be yours. If you're feeling pressured, by social media, friends or anyone else, it's worth pausing. Part of my job at a consultation is to make sure treatment is right for you, and sometimes the right answer is "not yet".
Anti-wrinkle treatment uses a prescription-only medicine. In England it's only available to adults aged 18 and over, and it isn't suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding, or with some medical conditions and medications. It should only ever be given after a face-to-face consultation with a qualified practitioner who can assess you properly and look after you if you have any concerns afterwards.
Choosing who treats you
Whatever your age, choose someone medically trained, insured and happy to answer every question. Ask what they're using, how much and why, and what happens if you're not happy. A good practitioner will never rush you, and will tell you if they think you don't need treatment.
Want to talk it through?
I'm Jane, a practising registered nurse, and I offer a free, no-pressure consultation at my private clinic in Broadfield, Crawley. We can look at your skin together, talk about what you'd like to achieve and decide whether treatment makes sense now, later or not at all. You can see prices and more detail on my anti-wrinkle treatment page.
Thinking about it?
Book a free consultation with Jane to talk it through, with no pressure.